Demeyere Cookware
February 16th, 2010
What’s the best cookware out there? Seems like a different answer from every person you ask. Many will say All-Clad. Some cooks clutch tightly to their beloved 60 year old cast iron pans, some love copper, and others cant live without non-stick coatings.
I spent a long time considering what cookware I want to invest in. I personally don’t believe in buying cheap things over and over again. I want cookware that I can use for the rest of my life. I also want to be able to achieve restaurant-quality results.
Edit: Since I’ve been using this cookware, I’ve now seen it pop up everywhere on TV… Bitchin’ Kitchen and Chopped are the latest shows I’ve seen it used on (though not named or endorsed specifically). I still love the stuff and have collected a few more pieces I should write about soon!
First, I ruled out what I don’t want:
- Copper because, no matter how awesome it is (and it is awesome), the tin lining eventually melts or wears away and it’s very hard to keep it in good condition for many years.
- Non-stick stuff because it’s not durable enough. Eventually the coating does wear away. I don’t want chemical coatings flaking into the food and non-stick pans are often not thick/heavy enough for a good even and sustainable heat. (although one non-stick is great to have for eggs and delicate fish)
- Cast iron because it’s incredibly heavy, can rust and the handles get as hot as the pan itself.
- Carbon steel because it also gets really hot, is heavy, can rust and can be very difficult to clean.
Eventually I settled on stainless/ply cookware. It’s the most durable material and almost impossible to damage beyond repair. Stainless can be cleaned fairly easily, put in the dishwasher and won’t rust. It may not have the looks of copper but there are some stylish stainless sets out there.
So, for me, the answer to the question “what is the best cookware out there?” turned out to be Demeyere’s Atlantis line of stainless steel pots and pans. I started small with the saute pan (for browning, braising and, uh, sauteing) and a small conical saucepan. I have ordered the Proline frying pan and hope to have that soon. Some day I’d love to have a larger conical pan and a casserole from the line. For now I fill in the gaps with my 30 year old stainless pans inherited from my parents.
Browning Pork
Braising Shortribs
Demeyere is a somewhat little-known company making pots and pans in Belgium. They don’t have the flashy name or the deal with Food Network. They are quite expensive. They are heavy. So why did I choose Demeyere’s Atlantis line to be my cookware for, quite possibly, the rest of my life?
- The handles are large and comfortable.
- The edges of each pot are a “pouring edge.”
- The handles are welded (no rivets) and the pans are easy to clean.
- Each pot is made to suit its function.
- Serious weight, quality metals and construction quality.
- Incredible induction performance. (I use gas, but this is nice for future-proofing)
I also did, as always, thoroughly Google the matter and found that on most discussion forums and cooking communities, Demeyere is very highly regarded for cooking quality – even heat, responsiveness and durability.
Another thoughtful detail is that Demeyere constructs each pan according to its function. Where some manufacturers rely on a single trick (All-Clad comes to mind) for making every piece, Demeyere matches function to construction method. For instance, the frying pans and conical saucepans are clad because they are designed to reduce moisture and use the entire surface of the pan to cook the food. The saute pans, casseroles and straight sided saucepans are made with a copper disk bottom, because these are intended to have extremely even heat and preserve moisture. It is sort of hard to determine all of this from Demeyere’s own web site, so hopefully this explanation is of use to someone out there.
Above is an example of the saute pan construction. A nice, thick copper disk sits in the bottom of the pan. I wouldn’t suggest this cookware for the weak-armed among us, or those who are unwilling to lift significant weight during cooking and washing. In that area I will give the nod to All-Clad which is much lighter. Demeyere (at least this Atlantis line) is heavy stuff. Part of the reason it cooks so well!
That’s the illustration of the frying pan and conical saucepan layers. As you can see, this is more of a clad construction designed for cooking all over the surface.
If you’re interested, Sur La Table carries Demeyere Atlantis, but 125west.com and cookware.com are sometimes cheaper sources and have coupons from time to time. Ordering from 125west takes up to three weeks because the stuff comes right from Belgium.
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Great information and I admire the thought process that went into your decision making but it doesn’t have to be all or nothing. I love enameled cast iron (stews, rice pudding, chutney) and inexpensive regular iron skillets(cornbread, crumpets, pancakes) for some dishes. I like have one non-stick AllClad pan for omelets and crepes too. I would rather use an inexpensive nonstick pan for eggs than the most expensive piece of Resto or AllClad. For me it is best to have a variety of cookware. My ionized Calphalon (which I bought in the 80s when it was a big deal) is still going strong and is amazing stuff. My large enameled iron LeCreuset dutch oven and braiser are just wonderful- just a pure pleasure to use and own. My iron skillets are an absolute necessity. There is nothing better for cornbread or crumpets- I don’t care how much money you spend. My Cuisinart pieces fill in the gaps wonderfully, and did not cost an arm and a leg. In the past few years, I have been upgrading my Cuisinart pieces to AllClad and perhaps I will look harder at the Resto. I have to agree with you on copper. My mother in law bought me a ton of it and I never use it because of the upkeep. It is purely for show.
I agree completely. I use a mix myself… I have a couple of Le Creuset enameled cast iron pots for braising and stewing and bread-making… and I use a cheap non-stick fry pan for eggs. But for the main stuff… saute, fry, and sauce… I like the Demeyre very much for the reasons stated in the post. Ultimately, everyone should use what works!
One more thing on the conic sauteuse pans if you would:
Demeyere claims that it is not necessary to use a double-boiler/bain marie when using the conic sauteuse pans (to make dishes traditionally created with double boilers, ie. melting chocolate, hollandaise sauce, custards, etc. etc.).
What has been your experience with this? Do you still use a double-boiling method with your conic sauteuse for these types of dishes, and if so, what (mixing) bowl have you found works best with the size/shape of your 2.6qt conic sauteuse?
Again, thanks so much for any input you may have.
Thanks for the response! I was already leaning towards the 2.6, but your comments give me a much better idea about these pans. I’ll start with the 2.6, but will definitely have to add the 3.5 on the next “expansion effort.” Thanks again!
Thanks so much for your post!
I’m looking to buy my first Demeyere Atlantis sauteuse pan (conical sauce pan). I mostly cook for 2, but every now and then cook for up to 4 people. The biggest use of the pan will be making/reducing sauces.
Which size would you recommend for the first sauteuse pan: the 2.6 qt or the 3.5 qt?
I like the conical pans the most out of the pieces I have (my collection has grown since this post). They are very light and easy to handle compared to the disk-bottom types. I have the 3.5 and the 2.6. I think they are both wonderful. For sauces, the 2.6 should have plenty of space. I use it a lot. My only small complaint is that the edge is not “drip” proof becuase it gently flares out as opposed to having a flat lip (this is due to the clad construction). The straight saucepots have a flat edge and pour better, but they are bottom-heavy and not quite as easy to stir or move around.
The 3.5 feels more like a frypan/pot combination which can just about cook a whole dish-almost like a small wok. It’s probably too large for your average sauce job… but it’s a fantastic general-use pan for larger batches of sliced onions or bulkier ingredients.
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Could you post the weight of the conical saute pan, without lid? I’d really appreciate it. Can’t find anywhere, including the Demeyere site.
I will try to remember and do that tonight but, in general terms, it’s a very sturdy pan and fairly light – nowhere near the weight of a copper disk type. It’s easily used with one hand.
Jon –
Wow – I don’t know which is better, the cookware or the photos – photos should be on the Demeyere website! I’ve just tripped over your site while expecting my latest addition which is due tomorrow…no the wife isn’t pregnant, just awaiting delivery of a Demeyere Proline 11″ fry pan. I’ve been the proud owner of two Atlantis pieces, one Sauteuse and one large saute pan, for almost a year and they are fantastic. Interestingly, your detailed write-up represent the same conclusions and basis for my purchase.
The cookware really shines (pun intended) on induction, although if one is using a powerful induction burner, they should probably not start at 80% – just too powerful unless it’s for boiling water. To keep them shining, there’s nothing better than Barkeeper’s Friend is the best.
Heavy and very expensive…and absolutely NO regrets. Oh, and 125West has had some of the best prices with occasional coupons (just used their $20 halloween coupon), and two free small Demeyere Resto series gifts with > $300 purchase.
I am looking at buying the saucier. Can you please tell me what you use it for and how you find it different to a normal saucepan of the same size.
Thank you
It’s great for rapid reductions, anything you want to evaporate and reduce moisture. It’s also wonderful for things that need to be stirred frequently or whisked in the pan, the shape makes it very easy to handle.
Thanks forrrr this article ! Go on! sending stuff like that
Ohhh..for new owners of the Demeyere frypans..heat on 80% power..drop water sprinkles till they hop around,then lower to 20% power or a bit less….after a while you’ll know just by touching the side of the pan when it’s time to lower and cook and you’ll no longer need the water test.
The Demeyere frypan is a great product..heat on 80% power then lower the heat to 20%..never a problem with sticking,i can turn out omelettes in my 11″..really!
I love this cookware. It’s beautiful and durable. Handles stay cool. The frypans fry as good as a copper pan but lighter than copper. Good prices and discounts for large orders at http://www.yourcookware.com.
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Well, the handles are very comfortable and solid, and they don’t get hot. I don’t feel that grip is a problem either.
However, the 12″ saute pan is so heavy that the helper handle is somewhat necessary to pour liquid, etc out. I think you’d need the helper handle regardless of grip on the heavier pans.
I haven’t noticed the problem so I am going to say it’s not a problem. Your mileage may vary.
Hi Jon, do you find the handles of the Demeyere Atlantis to have sufficient grip even when rotating the pan to pour it?
The reason I ask is I have a Paderno sauce pan that has handles that look very much like the Atlantis ones (I have never touched the Atlantis cookware in person), and because my Paderno handles are slightly rounded, when I rotate a heavy sauce pan filled with liquid to pour it, my grip slips a little, especially if my hand is wet. I wonder if the Atlantis handles are flat enough to afford a good grip?
It’s custom, been tweaking it over time.
This wordpress theme you’re running, is it custom or did you download it form one of the free theme sites?
I found your site via the chow boards, and agree about Demeyere (I only own the proline/atlantis 11″ frying pan, but will probably buy more pieces soon — that pan, plus some cheap stockpots, a cast iron pan, and the 1.5qt falk culinair copper “try me”, is all I really use.).
The one tip I have for Demeyere is to buy some Bar Keeper’s Friend and Demeyere cleaner, since that makes cleaning and polishing a lot easier. I seem to get distracted sometimes while preheating a pan, or heating oil, or cooking, and I’ve burned quite a few things, but the surface cleans up nicely each time.
Thanks for the visit Ryan. I really am enjoying that frying pan and agree about Bar Keeper’s Friend… it really gets the sticky stuff off!
And yes, one of my recent finds was a cheap and HUGE 20qt stock pot on sale. I am a firm believer in gigantic cheap stockpots
Great information thank you for sharing. After researching and reading several post concerning Demeyere cookware I wanted to try them; however after reading yours I could wait no longer so I ordered a few Atlantis pieces (10) I am sure I am going to love them, so in advance, Thank you so much for your research, thorough information and awesome pictures. My pieces should arrive this week, if I can drag myself out of the kitchen I will write back and let you know what I think.
Thanks for reading Florence. I’d love to hear your impressions of the stuff you got. I’m sure you will like it, and your arms will get a workout. I’m jealous! 10 pieces!
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Great post, Jon. The pictures are stellar, and the information you provide is right to the point.
My thoughts parallel all of yours, especially the belief in not buying cheap things. Every time I do I regret it. After doing a lot of research, and trying out a few different lines of cookware over the years, I decided to go with the Atlantis line, too. I got two of the 8.5 stockpots for quantity cooking, a 5.1 quart dutch oven, a 3.2 quart saucepot, a 2.3 quart conical saute pan, a 1.6 quart sauce pan, and a 4.2 quart saute pan. I just got them in today and they are beautiful, but I haven’t tried them out yet. I’m particularly impressed with the solid feel of these things–they are definitely not light–and I love the handles. The handles are meaty, something you can really grab onto.
As I use them, if I note anything other than stellar performance, I’ll post back here. I suspect I won’t be writing.
Thanks again for a great post.
Thanks very much for checking it out and for the nice comments.
I found your link on the chow boards.. just wanted to say, nicely written and beautiful photos.